Even within the overall explosion in popularity vintage watches have been enjoying lately, vintage Cartier is experiencing its own renaissance. Elegance and whimsy are the threads that have always laced together the timeless collections the iconic French design house has produced since the late 1800s, and you might be surprised to find that Cartier was actually responsible for producing the first men’s wristwatch ever: The Santos-Dumont – designed in 1904 to allow Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont to track the time while keeping his hands free to fly. How’s that for tool watch pedigree?
While Cartier’s wristwatches have come a long way since the first Santos-Dumont, they all carry an instantly recognizable design language that is decidedly upscale, but far more versatile than you might expect. As the brand’s greatest hits, like the various Tank references and the Panthere (worn by style mavericks like Jeff Goldblum and Keith Richards), have undeniably hit the mainstream in popularity, obscurities and rare pieces from Cartier’s storied past have become increasingly collectable and a perfect way to set yourself apart from not just the steel tool watch pack, but the typical Cartier pack! Pieces like this yellow gold Ceinture from the 1980s, for example.
The Ceinture’s defining feature is its stunning stepped bezel case, which is one of the most sculptural and graceful cases Cartier ever produced. This example is the larger size of the two variants Cartier produced, giving it a more masculine wrist presence, which is accentuated by its white Paris-signed dial (watches with white dial watches always appear a bit larger than those with dark dials). While many of the most respected Cartier watches had quartz or manual-wind movements, those powered by automatic movements like this Ceinture are the most sought after and have an extra layer of horological intrigue to them. This ‘80s Ceinture is in excellent vintage condition, appears to have never been polished or otherwise repaired in any way, and also appears to be worn on its original Cartier leather strap. A perfect piece for daily wear, but also a strong candidate for the serious collector seeking an honest example of Cartier’s wonderfully imaginative ‘80s period. .
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